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Shape

Round brilliant cut
Round brilliant cut

Round brilliant is the most common and popular shape of the polished diamond. Cut by excellent proportions, round cut diamond shows better brilliance, fire, and scintillation or, in a simple word, the better play of light and color, than any other diamond’s shape. The round cut diamond price is always higher than the same non-round fantasy shape diamond with the same Color, Clarity, and Weight parameters.

Table: 56-58%
Total Depth: 59-62.5
Girdle: Thin to Slightly Thick
Princess
Princess

This square modified-brilliant cut is one of the most popular non-round diamond shapes. Due to the unique pavilion chevron-shape faceting style, Princess cut displays brilliance close to the Round cut, good sparkle, and less fire. Its brilliance is not broad as in emerald step cut, white light reflection flashes narrower and often, similar to “crushed ice.” The surface area is smaller for 5 to 10 %, compared to the same weight Round brilliant cut, due to the Princess's deep pavilion. Princess regularly is a square or slightly rectangular shape. To protect the corners of the Princess, we hide them inside the prongs. To get the best of the Princess cut diamond, look for the follows parameters:

Table: 56-58%
Total Depth: 59-62.5
Girdle: Thin to Slightly Thick
Length to width ratio is 1.00 up to 1.04
Cushion
Cushion

One of the most beautiful fancy shapes comes from the antique Old Mine Cut (Old German Cut). Only 120 years ago, Cushion cut was the most popular cut of the diamonds. Most of the rough diamonds until 1900 were polished as Cushions as one of the best choices among non-round diamond shapes. This shape appears as a square or rectangular pillow with rounded corners. Cushion brilliant may reveal even more dispersion (play of colors or Fire), than Round cut and almost the same level of brilliance and scintillation. It is the second by popularity after Princess, and it is one of the most beautiful ones among Fancy shape diamonds. Cushion Brilliant cut with Excellent Symmetry and Polish may display rare “Hearts & Arrows” effect. But choosing the Cushion, please pay attention to several points. First of all, take a look at Pavilion (a bottom part of the stone). It may have three kinds of facet patterns: Brilliant, French tip, and Modified cut. Brilliant cut increases the Fire, and French Tip has high brilliance. Cushion Modified cut due to the additional bottom facets helps diamond cutter get more weight from the rough diamond, but in most cases Modified cut pattern displays the “crushed ice” effect. To get the best of the Cushion cut diamond, look for the brilliant pattern pavilion or a French Tip with broad pavilion facets.

Table: 56-58%
Total Depth: 59-62.5
Girdle: Thin to Slightly Thick
Emerald cut
Emerald cut

Initially designed for emerald gemstones, this shape was successfully applied to diamonds. Emerald cut diamonds look very generous and noble. It seems more massive than the round brilliant cut one with the same weight. It has 5% to 10% more surface area than other shapes. So, you get a larger looking diamond for a lower price. This shape makes fingers visually look not only elegant but slender and more prolonged. As all fancy shapes, it is 25% - 30% less expensive compared to Round Cut stones. Due to the Step Cut, this shape creates more broad and magnificent white light reflections, sparkle on the side facets, but significantly less dispersion (fire). The best Length to Width ratio is from 1.30 to 1.50. Choosing the emerald cut, please pay attention to two parameters:

1. Color. Because of the shape, it is easier to notice the color in emerald cut stone, so we advise you to look for D to I color and to avoid purchasing J to Z colors.

2. Clarity. The light reflections and refraction, as well as the large upper facet called the table in the emerald cut, doesn’t help hide the inclusions, like in Round Brilliant cut. So, clarity is more noticeable. If you are looking for SI2, I1, or I2 clarity only, we advise you to choose another fancy shape stone. In low Color and Clarity, this stone will not look in the best way.

Asscher cut
Asscher cut

Asscher cut is a kind of square Emerald cut. Asscher cut was created by one of the world's most famous diamantaires families in the world. Asscher brothers were appreciated trusted by the British Royal family to cut the biggest and most precious diamond in the world – the Cullinan. Until today this diamond remains the property of Crown family, mounted into Queen’s Scepter. It is very similar to Emerald cut by its brilliance and beauty. Higher crown let to cut broader facets, that increase the sparkle of the stone. It reduces the level of fire, but brilliance became more noticeable. Asscher step cut as Princess cut are real unisex shape, used for male jewelry the same way as for a female. Similar to the Emerald cut, for the same reasons, it is recommended to choose D to I color and IF to SI1 clarity. To get the best of the Asscher cut is suggested to look for:

Table: 56-58%
Total Depth: 59-62.5
Girdle: Thin to Slightly Thick
Oval cut
Oval cut

The Oval cut comes from another famous diamantaire – Lazar Kaplan. The Oval cut is modified and elongated Round brilliant cut. As Emerald cut diamond, the ring with Oval cut shape makes fingers look thinner and elongated. This shape causes more even color dispersion, and, as a result, the color tints in the Oval cut are less noticeable, comparing to other fancy shapes. The light reflections inside the stone also help “hide” inclusion inside the stone, making it is less visible. Choosing Oval shape diamond to beware of the too deep pavilion, causing the bow-tie effect. To get the best of Oval cut stone, please look for:

Table: 56-58%
Total Depth: 59-62.5
Girdle: Thin to Slightly Thick
Heart
Heart

Due to its shape, this fancy cut is the bestseller for Saint Valentine’s Day. Once a year, all jewelers and diamantaires are looking for this shape only. An indispensable symbol of love, the Heart shape is usually set into pendants and engagement rings. Symmetry is more important for this shape than for other fancy shape diamonds. The point of Heart shaped diamond is regularly hidden into the prong, to protect it. To get the best of Heart shape, please look for:

Table: 56-58%
Total Depth: 59-62.5
Girdle: Thin to Slightly Thick
Pear
Pear

The second name of this fancy cut is a “drop” due to its shape. The Pear shape is a combination of Marquise cut, and Round cut. There could be small differences in Pear shape. The bottom part of the diamond may have Brilliant, Modified, or French Culet pattern. Middle size diamonds of Pear shape are used mostly for earrings and pendants, small size is used for necklaces and expensive big size pieces usually to be mounted into rings.

Table: 56-58%
Total Depth: 59-62.5
Girdle: Thin to Slightly Thick

So, I hope these small secrets will help you make the right choice.